There is a lot of space here because I don't know how to get rid of it.
​Please scroll down.
I've included this entertaining photo to kill time while you scroll down.
The Century: A Love Story
Oil Reservoir
This is looking in through the door of center console. Open the door and take out the life jackets and other items. You will then find a white plastic, false floor. Remove that, and this is what you see. This greenish white plastic box is where we add oil. Please check it once a week. And try to keep it at least half full. It doesn't hurt to have it completely full. It can be a tricky pour so have rags ready.
E​xtra oil should be in the compartment, or if it is not, there should be some in the Workshop. You can buy more at Demasdon's or any marina. 2-stroke oil ONLY.
2-Stroke oil ONLY
Oil Gauge
You can also assess the oil reservoir fullness with the three dashes across the bottom of this gauge. Over the first dash is empty circle that represents, ah, empty. The middle dash represents 30%-60% full. And the fully shaded circle over the far right dash shows completely full. Please keep an eye on these.
As the oil is used, the dashes disappear from left to right (full to empty) starting from the right. A blinking far left dash means oil is very low.
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NOTE: Thankfully, the engine will not start or run if there is no oil. If the engine ever dies while running, or doesn't start, check the oil. There is also an alarm that dings when low, but that may no longer be working.
Bow Trim
Getting your best fuel economy
Without getting into detail, you want as little water friction on the hull of the boat as possible. Trimming the boat is the key. (Look far right on the gauge, you'll see vertical numbers and a boat icon with arrows--this is way to "see" your trim. To control the trim, grab the throttle and your thumb will feel a rocker switch-like movable pad.
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Quick easy way, (but not ideal): keep it around 2.5 all the time. Problem is this keeps the boat down in the water for a long time, painfully plowing dense water...instead of riding on top of it and skimming.
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Pro way: Start with trim at 1. This gets the boat up on top of the water fast; very little plowing, and is especially helpful with big loads. Then, as you feel the boat rise up, come out of the water, and the speed increase, push the top half of the trim control and stop at guage to 2.5-3. I continue to push it up from there until I feel the "bow porpoise" (rising and falling teetering), when I see/feel that, I lower the trim just enough for a steady ride.
(Oh no, this looks like the same picture!)
Battery Switch
There are battery switches in both the Century and the Grady White because their are two batteries in those bigger boats. (The Whalers only have one battery each.)
In the Century, the switch is inside the console door, on the right. (The GW battery switch is under a rear seat.)
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The purpose of a battery switch is to prevent both boat batteries from both being completely drained...say if the ignition or a light or something is left on.
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Our battery switches have four settings or clicks: Battery "1," Battery "2," "BOTH," and "OFF."
In the photo on the left, the switch is set to "1"...Battery 1.
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So...finally....we want the battery switch to be set to EITHER 1, or 2. If you set it to BOTH, both batteries could drain and die (2 X $400). If you set it to OFF, neither will drain or die, but the boat won't start or run.
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EITHER 1, or 2.
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Butt, butt, keep in mind boat batteries charge when the engine is running (at cruising speeds), so we do need to charge the one that is not being used...prolong its life. Batteries are a fascinating tech.
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So what I do, is every 3-4 days, switch from "1" to "2" and back and forth. This will keep them happily charged, and ready to go.
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